This tool is no longer offered. Tensioning of the 944 balance belt can now be done with the 920X.
This tool was developed in the spring of 2004 and will help you to accurately set the tension on the balance belt of your 944 series Porsche.
So how does it work? Measuring belt tension is done placing a known deflecting force somewhere along the belts span and measure the amount of deflection. For the AWX, the force is delivered via a small torque wrench (not included with this tool) and a swing arm. The swing arm is designed specifically for the 944's balance belt. The swing arm (or moment arm) has a small pointer that is used to measure the deflection. Finally, the tool has a specific pivot fixture that mounts to the engine and provides a point from which the swing arm can address the belt. It also has a bent rod, with marks to know the ideal setting.
Some of the photos below show a zinc finish that was used on the very early version of this tool. That finish has been changed the black oxide finish shown above.
Above, I am preparing to set the tensioning the balance belt on a 944 NA. I start with removing the upper belt cover. I then remove the the idler located above the water pump. I separate the balance pivot from the balance belt swing arm and mount the pivot in place of the idler located above the water pump. Notice how the small black sled sits above the belt. The pivot is then rotated so that the pivot's bent shaft is oriented straight up. This ensures that a specific pivot point near the balance belt is in the correct position. Orienting the bent rod can generally be done by eye but if in doubt, fashion a makeshift plum-bob out of a piece of string and a weight (nut, washer etc) to verify the position. While holding it in this position the cap screw can be tightened with a hex key.
The next few steps vary depending on the model of your 944. If you have a model that is equipped with an auto-tensioner (87 and later) follow the steps at the bottom of this page marked with the heading "Engines with Auto-tensioner." If your engine does not have the auto-tensioner, continue with the next steps, immediately below.
With the pivot in place and secured, I'm ready to place the swing arm. The swing arm is placed on the pivot pin and situated so that it's sled is on the opposite side from the pivot's sled - one sled above and one below the belt. The swing arm can then be rotated and deflecting pressure placed on the belt. I set the torque wrench for 35 inch pounds (clockwise rotation) and apply the torque. When the wrench clicks, I read the pointer's position. If it points to the small green slot on the bent rod, then the belt is tensioned correctly. If it reads on either side of the green slot, then I simply adjust the belt's tension (if pointing to the right of the green slot, the tension is too loose, if to the left the belt tension is too tight). Unlike the other tools, the swing arm provides a consistent reading each time.
Remove the swing arm and pivot. Re-install the idler pulley and belt cover.
The auto-tensioner will interfere with the swing arm's sled. To alleviate this problem, the swing arm's sled must be removed. To do this use a fingernail or small pic to simply pry off the small snap-ring. Then, remove the sled and attaching parts to safe location.
In the above photo, you can see the swing arm being placed on the pivot. Notice how the grooved pin fits under the belt and contacts the belt between the belt's nubs. To do this you may need to rotate the engine's crankshaft. Do this with a ratchet and socket (do not attempt it using the starter). When positioned correctly the swing arm swings smoothly in an clockwise arc with gradually increasing resistance. Verify this and adjust the crankshaft position if needed.
The swing arm can now be rotated and deflecting pressure will placed on the belt. I set the torque wrench for 35 inch pounds (clockwise rotation) and apply the torque. When the wrench clicks, I read the pointer's position. If it points to the small red slot on the bent rod, then the belt is tensioned correctly. If it reads on either side of the red slot, then I simply adjust the belt's tension (if pointing to the right of the red slot, the tension is too loose, if to the left the belt tension is too tight). Special Note: early versions of this tool did not have the red slot. If you will return the tool to me, I will correct this, for more info please see this page.
Remove the swing arm and pivot. Re-install the idler pulley and belt cover.
The cam belt part of this tool has been discontinued - current owners of this tool may reference this link for instructions on the discontinued part of the tool.
Aside from the common hand tools needed to gain access to the balance belt; you will also need a small torque wrench. It must be capable of 35 inch pounds (in both directions) and probably should have a ratcheting head to allow torquing at all angles.
If you haven't tensioned your belts before you might look through the general procedure for how to do this job.
All metal parts of this tool have an iron oxide finish and are coated with a light oil. Even so, precautions should be taken to keep the tool lubricated and dry to prevent corrosion.
There are currently no instructions included with the tool. This online information (above) will be updated though to illustrate how to use the tool.
--------
"I got the distributor cap off but I can't seem to get it back on, is there something I'm missing?"
The distributor cap need not be removed for use of this tool. Re-installing the distributor cap can be difficult because of interference with the headlight actuator bar. If you cannot get the cap back on using a stubby screwdriver, there is one work-around. Remove the cam gear cover, remove the round plastic dust shield that is designed to keep belt dust out of the distributor rotor area. Install the cap onto the cam gear cover (without the dust shield), and install the 2 pieces together onto the engine. This is not ideal but I admit that I have run my cars many thousands of miles without the dust cover. Whether you use the AWX or not, removing the distributor provides some much needed working space.
-------------
"Can the AWX be disassembled for cleaning, lubrication?"
Yes, small snap rings (e-clips) are used to hold the parts together and there are tiny washers on either side of all moving parts. They are very easily lost, so beware. Of course, I can help with replacement parts, if needed.
----------
"Why is the cam belt portion of the AWX no longer available?"
This part of the tool is very difficult to make accurately and has steadily pushed my prices higher. I get many requests for the balance belt part of the tool but not many for the cam belt part. In the winter of 2004, I began developing a replacement for the cam belt tool. That new tool was first tested February of 2005 and showed so much promise that I immediately removed the old cam belt tool from the market. A few months later the new 920X tool was made available. Since that time the 920X has continued to evolve and now can be used for tensioning the balance belt as well as the cam belt.